AS a child, I often went to Swarthmoor Hall. It was on the route of many Ulverston youngsters' perambulations around the area - a short but sometimes muddy walk across the meadows from Springfield. It was also, crucially, free to get in.
I remember it as slightly spooky (from a child's perspective - it didn't have a television in the living room!), with an uncomfortable-looking dark wooden crib in one of the bedrooms. It must be four decades - shamefully - since I last visited, but this week saw me scoffing cheese scones in the Barn Cafe with a former lady mayor of Barrow.
Swarthmoor Hall was built by some Quakers in the 17th century - who I think must have got their name from the nearby Quaker Fold housing estate. While the hall is very much as I remember it from my childhood days (not that I went in on this visit - a tour of the house is £6.50 but I didn't have time), the surrounding grounds have undergone something of a renaissance, with a conference centre, accommodation, ticket and info office, and the Barn Cafe - which is where we were headed.
With splendid views over the lovely hall, the cafe forms one perimeter of a charming walled garden, with plenty of outside seating for warmer days. Set over two floors, the cafe is compact but very welcoming. A few tables on the ground floor, with more on the mezzanine level above. All is light and bright - and there was a log burner blazing downstairs when I visited.
Former lady mayor Hazel and I settled ourselves by the fire and ordered drinks and a quick bite to eat. The menu is typical artisan cafe fare - lots of soup and sandwiches, everything home made and, apart from bacon, mostly vegetarian dishes. I chose a cafetière of coffee (£2), followed by roasted cauliflower, sweet potato and garlic soup with a cheese scone for £4.95. A pot of tea (£1.80) and a brie, cranberry, walnut and apple sandwich (£5.95) for Her Former Worshipfulness.
The cafe has a locals' scheme which rewards regulars with discounts and free drinks - always a great way of attracting repeat business and loyalty. The atmosphere at the Barn is relaxed and - even with children around during the school holidays - it exudes a certain calm, which I assume must be down to all that Quaker history seeping through the fabric of the place.
My coffee was piping hot and excellent quality - smooth and deep, with a generous jug of hot milk. My bowl of simple soup was, in fact, anything but. A velvety concoction of delicious and sophisticated soup, subtly flavoured with garlic, drizzled with oil and totally gorgeous. A superb soup. The cheese scone was large, warm and fresh as a daisy, and I devoured it greedily, slathering butter all over it and not giving two hoots about the calories. Hazel's brie sandwich was generously stuffed with its filling, served with a side salad and jug of dressing. Simple but faultless cafe food; and served by two very friendly young men.
Sadly, the cheese scone put paid to my intentions of testing a cake on your behalf - but there is a good range available, including gateau, carrot cake, tiffin and banana cake. Gluten and dairy-free puddings are also available. Ice cream is available to take away as well as eat in; and the children's menu is both appealing (peanut butter sandwiches are included) and healthy - being served with carrot sticks and raisins.
The slight downside to the Barn is that the loos are a fair trek away, across the grounds to the conference centre. Fine on a lovely day but not ideal if it's tipping down.
It's great to see this marvellous part of our area's rich history thriving. The hall itself sits in tranquil, timeless serenity, while modern needs such as conferences and catering are provided for in an entirely sympathetic manner. Staying in some of the hall's guest accommodation must be a delightful experience, as is a visit to the lovely cafe. Resolving to return soon, and to make time to tour the hall once more, I left feeling that the Quakers - also known as the Religious Society of Friends - had a lot right in their ethos.
Food 4 Service 4 Atmosphere 4 Value 4
Pros Peaceful surroundings Home made food Ample parking
Cons Trek to the toilet Not much for meat lovers
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